Eating out

How do cafés and restaurants work in different European countries?

Dinner at 18:00 in Berlin or 22:00 in Madrid, a bill that never comes until you ask, and bread you may not have ordered. What to expect, country by country.

By the Time to Travel teamUpdated 16 October 20264 min read

The short version

Meal times are the biggest surprise. Locals in Germany eat dinner around 18:00 to 20:00, in France from about 19:30, in Italy from about 20:00, and in Spain and Greece from 21:00 or later; many kitchens close between lunch and dinner. In Italy the bill usually does not arrive until you ask for it, which is politeness, not slow service. Tap water is free on request in Spanish restaurants by law, and in Portugal you do not have to pay for starters you did not order and did not eat. To get a table at a popular place, book through the restaurant or an app such as TheFork, OpenTable or Quandoo.

Who is this guide for?

Visitors who want to eat when and where locals do, without awkward moments over the bill. Customs vary by region and by type of restaurant, and tourist areas often serve all day, so treat this as what to expect in a typical local restaurant. For how much to tip, see our separate guide to tipping in European restaurants and cafés.

When do people eat lunch and dinner?

Germany12:00 to 14:00 · 18:00 to 20:00
France12:00 to 14:30 · 19:30 to 21:30
Italy13:00 to 15:00 · 20:00 to 22:00
Spain14:00 to 16:00 · 21:00 to 23:00
Greece14:00 to 15:00 · 21:00 to 23:00
10:0014:0018:0022:00

Usual local meal times, 10:00 to midnight. The first bar in each row is lunch (green) and the second is dinner (orange); times are also written under each country. Sources: The Local (Germany and Italy), Université Paris-Saclay (France), and local guides for Spain and Greece, checked 16 October 2026.

The pattern runs from north to south. In Germany, lunch has traditionally been the main hot meal, and the evening meal is often light and early. France keeps strict service times: outside roughly 12:00 to 14:30 and 19:30 to 21:30, many restaurants serve nothing but drinks. In Italy, The Local reports that in most towns restaurants will not take bookings before 20:00 or even 20:30. In Spain and Greece, lunch is the big meal of the day, and dinner rarely starts before 21:00.

If you are hungry at 17:00 in Madrid or Rome, you will not be the only one: cafés, tapas bars and places in tourist areas often serve food through the afternoon. Just do not expect a full dinner menu.

What customs should I know at the table?

The bill comes when you ask. In Italy, The Local notes that unless the place is very busy or touristy, the bill is not usually presented until you ask for it ("il conto, per favore"). Catch the waiter's eye when you are ready.
Together or separately. In Germany, staff often ask "zusammen oder getrennt?", together or separately. Splitting the bill item by item is normal, and you give the tip as you pay.
Standing is cheaper than sitting. In Italian bars, coffee at the counter (al banco) costs less than the same coffee at a table (al tavolo), where table service is added. In busy tourist squares the difference can be several times the counter price.
Bread and starters. In Portugal, the law says nothing can be charged unless you ordered it or used it, including the couvert of bread, butter and olives placed on the table. If you eat it, you pay for it, so say no straight away if you do not want it. In Italy, the coperto cover charge must be shown on the menu.
Water. Spain's 2022 waste law requires bars and restaurants to offer free unbottled water. In France, a carafe of tap water with a meal is free under a long-standing rule. In other countries, ask for tap water if you want it.

What is the best way to book a table?

Ways to book a restaurant table in Europe, compared as of October 2026
Option	Coverage	Cost to diner	Cancellation	Pros	Cons
TheFork	50,000+ restaurants in 11 European countries	Free	Set by each restaurant; some take card details	Widely used in France, Italy and Spain	Ownership is changing: American Express agreed to buy it, with completion expected by the end of 2026
OpenTable	Many countries; widely used by restaurants in the UK and Germany	Free	Set by each restaurant	Familiar to North American visitors	Less used than TheFork in Spain and Italy
Quandoo	Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy, the Netherlands, Finland, the UK and Türkiye	Free	Set by each restaurant	Good choice in German-speaking countries	Not available in France, Spain, Portugal or Greece
Restaurant's own site or phone	Every restaurant	Free	Agree it when you book	Works for small family places with no app listing	Language barrier on the phone
Walk in	Every restaurant	Free	Nothing to cancel	Total flexibility	Popular places fill up, especially on weekend evenings

Who should pick what: in France, Italy and Spain, start with TheFork. In Germany, Austria and Switzerland, try Quandoo or OpenTable. For family-run places, call or walk in, ideally just as dinner service starts. Going at local meal times helps, but booking ahead for a popular restaurant matters more than the app you use.

Check which app your restaurant uses before you travel.

TheFork OpenTable Quandoo

Goes to the official operator site.

Frequently asked questions

What time do people eat dinner in Spain?

Usually from 21:00, often later, especially in summer. Lunch, the main meal, is usually between 14:00 and 16:00.

Why doesn't the waiter bring the bill in Italy?

Because bringing it unasked can seem like rushing you. Unless the restaurant is very busy or touristy, ask for it with "il conto, per favore" when you are ready.

Is tap water free in restaurants in Spain?

Yes. Spain's 2022 waste law requires bars and restaurants to offer free unbottled water to customers, so you can ask for tap water at no charge.

Do I have to pay for bread and olives in Portugal?

Only if you ordered or ate them. Portuguese law says nothing, including the couvert, can be charged unless the customer ordered it or used it. If you do not want it, say so when it arrives.

Where the figures come from

Checked on 16 October 2026. Official sources first; secondary sources are labelled.